Creative Developments
(Cosmetics) Limited
The
use of natural materials continues unabated and ever more obscure extracts and
oils are added to the list available. However the trend is to discover what
makes some natural materials efficacious and to identify and develop the active
content, research that featured prominently at the IFSCC Congress, 1998,
France. Much of the research concentrated on anti-free radical activity, thus
extracts obtained from Paeonia
suffruticosa and Sanguisorba
officinalis were shown to strongly inhibit formation of advanced glycation
end-products and thereby exhibited an anti-aging effect [Ref. 1]. The effects
upon free radicals and enzymes induced by essential oils, absolutes and
fragrant compounds were described [Ref. 2]. The authors suggested that
anti-enzyme properties had not been previously studied and that these may
contribute towards the activity of essential oils when used in Aromatherapy. Of
the oils studied marjoram (Origanum
majorana) and chamomile (Anthemis
nobilis) were shown to have some pro-tyrosinasic and anti-elastasic
properties and hay absolute had a strong anti-elastasic effect. Another paper
[Ref. 3] discussed the use of glucoside derivatives of perfumery compounds as
alternative deodorant ingredients. Initially without aroma, they are broken
down by the natural microflora of the skin to release fragrance and many also
have an inhibitory action on the bacteria that cause body malodours.
The
inner nutshell of chestnut (Castanea mollisima) has long been used
as an anti-ageing and anti-wrinkle agent in East Asia. An ethanol extract was
prepared and various biological activities evaluated [Ref. 4]. The extract
showed good antioxidant properties and possessed potent free radical scavenging
activity in vitro and a preventive
effect against UV-induced cytotoxicity of fibroblast. It effectively inhibited
histamine release from mast cells and the inhibitory activity was stronger than
that of glycyrrhiznate. From the attempts to isolate the constituents,
citropten (simple coumarin) and ellagic acid, a well known radical scavenger,
were found. In a clinical trial of twenty healthy volunteers with aged skin,
application of a cream containing 3% extract over six weeks decreased wrinkles
and increased moisture content.
At
the 1996 IFSCC Congress in Sydney the results of screening 150 medicinal plants
were presented [Ref. 5]; of these the authors selected Areca catechu (Betel nut) for further study. An ethanol extract was
prepared and its free radical scavenging properties, its antioxidant activity,
its inhibition of elastase activity, its potential as a moisturiser and its
usefulness in reducing the visible signs of ageing measured. The effects of a
cream containing 3% of extract were shown to improve skin hydration and skin
elasticity and to visibly reduce wrinkles and it was concluded that the product
had a protecting effect on the mechanical properties of skin provided by the
collagen and the elastin and a restructuring effect on scarring and ageing
tissue. Other papers or posters of note for those interested in the activity of
naturally derived materials included a study of the hair repair properties of
wheat proteins, the use of a clove extract as an antioxidant, the inhibitory
effect of an extract from Ramulus mori
on tyrosinase activity and of the whitening effect of Lagenaria leucantha through the melanin biosynthesis of S bikiniensis and the inhibition of
melanogenesis.
Not
all discoveries require extensive facilities; Dr. T C. Kripp [Ref. 7] realised that
holly leaves possessed a highly effective coating protecting them against
drying out even under extremely untoward conditions and imparting them their
brilliant shine and deep colour. These observations led to a close
investigation of the coating. Kripp collected leaves from a bush in his garden
and isolated a water-repellent, highly refractive resin by classic extraction
methods. It was found both in Ilex
aquifolium and in the closely related Paraguay tea shrub, Ilex paraguariensis. Chemically the resin
is a complex mixture of hydrophobic substances, mainly high-molecular
hydrocarbons, terpenes and terpene esters. The resin was incorporated in a skin
cream formulation and made it noticeably richer. Depending on its
concentration, the conditioning effect of o/w and especially of w/o emulsions
was significantly enhanced to provide effective skin protection. In hair care
and styling products it improved wet combability, manageability, feel, and
elasticity of the hair. It also intensified the hair colour and, according to
the author, like all natural substances, it has the intrinsic advantages of
biodegradability, climatic safety and is sparing of fossil resources.
While
papers and posters from the conference are of interest, especially to those
seeking new ideas or proof of efficacy, the formulator needs to look at
materials which are already available from suppliers. Materials from the seas
continue to attract attention and like their land-based counterparts, interest
is transferring from the use of simple extracts to materials with proven
properties. Seaweeds exist in a particularly hostile environment; they face
immersion and exposure, large changes in temperature and salinity and
mechanical stress through wave action.
SECMA Biotechnologies Marines is a company that specialises in isolating
biologically active agents from the marine environment and which publishes
supporting data to justify the claims that are made. Materials are available
with antioxidant and free radical scavenging properties: a substitute for
mammalian elastin is claimed to improve the skin surface and an extract from Gelidium cartilagineum to be effective
in slimming and anti-cellulite products. A new material for which preliminary
data is available is Pyrenoine, an aqueous-glycolic extract of Fucus spiralis, rich in acid phenols,
which reduces lipid peroxidation and increases UVA protection. Omegaplancton is
obtained from plankton cultured by biotechnology to yield a high content of
eicosa pentaenoic acid and docossa hexanoic acid; two Omega 3 polyunsaturated
fatty acids. It is shown to reduce inflammation and transepidermal water loss
in human skin and to protect enzymatic metabolism against lipid peroxidation.
Tests would appear to show that some of this activity is achieved by the material
stimulating the formation of ceramides within the epidermis.
Codif Rechercehe et Development
is another company from Northern Brittany producing marine-based materials with
cosmetic applications. Extracts, concentrates and mixtures are available with activity
to moisturise, stimulate and improve the appearance of skin and to protect it
from natural and environmental pollutants. Much is made of the stimulating and
lipolytic activity of trace elements, marine minerals, amino acids and iodine
to be found in such extracts and of the hydrating, soothing and calming
properties of the glucosides that abound in many marine algae. Dermachlorella
is an active agent rich in proteins extracted from Chlorella microalgae which is said to stimulate collagen synthesis within
the dermis and to inhibit enzyme attack on collagen and elastin. Its amino-acid
profile shows a significant presence of alanin, glycin and prolin which are the
main amino-acids present in collagen, and of lysin which, with prolin, is a
precursor of collagen biosynthesis. 80% of peptides within Dermachlorella have
a molecular weight below 6,000 Daltons and are claimed to be small enough to
penetrate skin.
The
use of biotechnology to cultivate microalgae and to enrich the extracts
obtained is growing rapidly. Laboratoires Bowman, also from France, cultivates Teraselmis, Chlorophycea, Porphyridium
and other phyto-plankton to yield actives for incorporating in moisturisers and
anti-ageing products. The same company also supplies collagen and elastin from fish
skin and marine mucopolysaccharides obtained from fish cartilage.
A
problem for any formulator asked to produce a product containing AHAs is to
avoid infringing any of the multitude of patents on the subject. Brooks Industries believes that because
its Multifruit BSC is a combination of fruit extracts it does not infringe any
of the current patents although caution and professional expertise is advised.
The product is a combination of five botanical extracts; bilberry, sugar cane,
sugar maple, orange and lemon and although not new, in view of the preceding
statement it is worth consideration. Brooks believes that it is more effective
than synthetic lactic acid or glycolic acid in stimulating cell renewal and
does not appear to be so potentially irritating. Another established Brooks
material for which further data is now available is Willowbark Extract which
claims the benefits of salicylic acid without the irritation.. Available as an
extract or in liposome form, 10% of either material is approximately equivalent
to 1% of salicylic acid yet when tested in equivalent proportions they are
shown to be more effective in increasing cell turnover, to have greater
antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus
aureus and Propionibacterium acnes
than the plain acid yet to be less irritating. The seeds of Foeniculum vulgare are the source of NAB
Fennel Seed Extract from Brooks. Despite its historical claim to be an
aphrodisiac it is only recommended for protecting the skin against lipid
peroxidation by inhibiting peroxidase activity and to reduce UV induced
erythema.
Free
amino acid complexes as opposed to partially hydrolysed proteins are said to
offer particular benefits to skin and hair by Croda Oleochemicals which has
introduced five new materials which are said to have powerful moisture
retentive properties and are able to penetrate keratin. They are sourced from
sesame (Sesamum indicum) seed, lupin (Lupinus albus) seeds, an edible
blue-green microalgae from the Pacific and a complex of free amino acids and
lower molecular weight sugars from rice protein. The complexes are water
soluble, have good alcohol tolerance and are unaffected by surfactants. They
have good substantivity and are used at from 0.5 - 2.0% in hair and skin
products. Croda acquired Sederma
earlier this year and are now responsible for the marketing of Sederma
products. Sederma literature has always been exemplary with a full description
of the material, its specification and its use in cosmetics, usually supported
by efficacy data. Materials are available for skin moisturising and protection
and includes ceramides and free radical scavengers. Anti-ageing, slimming, skin
whitening and anti-inflammatory ingredients from natural sources or prepared by
biotechnology all feature in the extensive range, one of which, Langherine,
improves the activity of Langerhans cells and thus supports the natural defence
of the skin.
Not
all formulators want the source material broken down into its vital parts and
there is still a great demand for new natural materials, especially if there
are apparent advantages in using them. Thus for those users of botanical
extracts who wish for one that did not look like cold tea, natural cucumber (Cucumis sativus) distillate from A&E Connock Ltd. is a water-white,
liquid with a strong natural aroma of fresh cucumber. The fruit is crushed and
the distillate obtained by low temperature vacuum distillation within 60
minutes of picking, the distillate is free of preservatives and antioxidants
and as little as 0.05 - 0.15% is said to be sufficient to impart a fresh
cucumber fragrance to suitable products. The same supplier has an extensive
range of natural materials for use as physical exfoliants; recent additions
include evening (Oenothera biennis)
primrose seed and blue (Papaver somniferun)
poppy seed which, as its name suggests, is a dark natural blue colour. Connock
also supplies crude, cold pressed hemp (Cannabis
sativa) seed oil, an oil that is exciting much interest because typically
it contains 19% unsaturated alpha linolenic acid, 57% unsaturated linoleic acid
and 1.7% gamma linolenic acid. Also from Connock is avocado (Persea gratissima)
butter and hydrogenated sunflower wax, both of which may be used to add body
and texture to emulsions without recourse to hydrocarbon waxes.
References
1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 7 are papers or posters presented at the IFSCC Congress, 1998,
Cannes, France.
1. Possible
roles of advanced glycation end-products in promoting skin ageing and of plant
extracts in inhibiting skin ageing. Okano
et al.
2.
New and unexpected cosmetic properties of
perfumes. Effects upon free radicals and enzymes induced by essential oils,
absolutes and fragrant compounds. Étienne
et al.
3.
Novel deodorising method with
glycosidically bound volatiles. T Ikemoto
4.
New anti-ageing and anti-wrinkle cosmetic
ingredient: inner nutshell of Castanea
mollisima (Chestnut). Beom-Jun Kim
5. Motoyosh
K., Takenouch M., Proceedings of the 19 th IFSCC Congress, Sydney, R053
(1996).
6.
Efficacy and biological activities of a
new anti-ageing agent obtained from Areca Catechu. Kun-Kook Lee et al.
7.
Ilex resin, a novel renewable raw
material for cosmetics. Dr. TC. Kripp